Bathroom faucet hookup
Slide the drain rim up into the drain hole from beneath. Screw the drain collar onto the rim, making sure the hole in the drain rim faces the back. Then tighten the mounting nut to the sink from underneath. Wipe away any excess silicone that oozes out from under the drain collar. Wrap the threads of the old drain tailpiece with Teflon tape.
Attach it to the drain rim. The drain stopper and the rod that opens and closes it are part of the pop-up waste assembly.
Easy Update with Hansgrohe's Talis Select
The lift rod is screwed to a metal strap with holes that hold a horizontal ball rod. The other end of the ball rod catches the bottom of the stopper. The ball fits into a hole in the drain rim and is held there by a metal nut. The stopper moves via this ball joint whenever the lift rod moves.
To assemble the pieces, slide a plastic washer, then the metal nut from the drain rim, then one side of a spring clip onto the long end of the ball rod. Stick the end of the rod through one of the holes on the strap and secure it with the spring clip. Put another washer on the short end of the ball rod and slide it into the drain rim. Hold the stopper in the drain and catch its hook with the rod. Test that the stopper opens high enough to let water out. If not, use a different hole in the strap or adjust the stopper's hook by unscrewing it. To secure the ball rod, screw the metal nut onto the drain tailpiece, but leave it loose enough for the ball to move smoothly.
With the stopper open, thread the lift rod down through the back of the spout and the top of the strap. Tighten the set screw on the strap to hold the lift rod. Turn on the water supply, and check for leaks. Unscrew the aerator on the spout, turn on the faucet to flush out the system, then put the aerator back. Most come with spout, valves, braided line to connect the valves, handles, drain collar, and pop-up waste assembly, though some valves and handles are sold separately.
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- How to Install a Bathroom Faucet.
Look for parts made from solid brass under the finish or stainless steel for the best quality. Rigid supply lines aka risers should be used in an exposed installation, but they might need to be bent to fit, which takes some finesse. Buy three just in case in a chrome finish for the best appearance and in lengths longer than you need. Make sure you get the ones with an "acorn head" which becomes part of the connection to the faucet valves. You will also need to buy compression fittings.
Braided-steel lines are flexible and therefor easy to install but aren't as pretty. They come in various lengths, with fittings on the ends. Instead of plumber's putty, to seal gaps around the valves, spout, and drain collar. Some manufacturers warn that using plumber's putty will void their finish warranties because the oil-based product can cause damage. Skip to main content. Get the latest news, updates and offers from This Old House to your inbox. Working in tight quarters under the sink can be frustrating, but the job is basically screwing things together.
While the single handle controls both the hot and the cold water it also makes it too easy to use hot water each time the water is used. The two handle system requires one to consciously choose to use hot water only when hot water is required. There is a measurable saving in fuel cost between the two types of systems.
Will the savings in fuel cost exceed the cost of replacing two cartridges? The hot water cartridge will likely outlast the cold by being used less often. On this faucet you could turn the handle the entire way to the cold setting. Hansgrohe makes solid fixtures. We used all PEX which also makes it easier for homeowners. I like the idea of silicone. I also prefer the single handle vs the double handle. I believe that less moving parts can last longer and single handle faucets can last longer with less repairs.
Replacing Bathroom Faucet and Drain Connections
Thanks Pasquale, we feel the same way. Silicone is a more permanent fix for leaks but worth it. We had a small leak at the drain connection to the chrome pipe. But after using the Silicone it was solved. The flow is either on full or off. One can control the temperature nicely, but not the flow. Seems like this would be a waste of water in many situations, also the full volume flow tends to blow the toothpaste right off the toothbrush when only a trickle is needed to moisten it.
Great point about the flow Floyd. They would probably figure that out and make the twisting action tied in with the volume of water. I am a fan of single lever faucet. It keeps leaking immediately below the nut that secures the drain pipe to the sink when I leave water in the sink for testing purposes. Seems like some capillary action. I had the same problem with the Metris. In this case, a large nut and washer tightens the valve from below while a large washer and C-clip holds the valve at the top. Apply plumber's putty to the sculpted bottom side of the top washer.
Install the C-clip, and tighten the nut from below. Just as a reminder, the hot and cold valves are left and right respectively. For this faucet, the top trims are installed by threading onto the mixing valve. Make sure the handle is oriented parallel to the wall in the OFF position prior to threading the trim. Next, hook up the water lines from below.
How to Replace a Bathroom Faucet
Luckily, this faucet features easy snap-end fittings. If yours uses threaded NPT fittings, be sure to use plumber's tape on any connections not utilizing a rubber or gasket seal. Install the new water line extensions to the shut off and mixing valves. Finally, reinstall the drain rod to the extension, and tighten the clamp bolt.
Double check all your fittings, and slowly turn ON the shut off valves one at a time. Look for leaks, and if all is well, test and flush the new faucet for two minutes. While faucets tend to last a long time, they don't always age well in the design department. Replacing your bathroom faucets can be a quick and rewarding project.
Plus, if you choose ones with separate mixing valves and trims, you can more easily update the faucet in the future with less work and waste. Sign up for weekly project ideas and advice from experts. How To Rooms and Spaces Bathroom. Assemble the Parts Once you have the new faucet picked out, assemble all the parts you need, and double check so you can complete this at one time and without multiple trips to the hardware store.
How to Replace a Bathroom Faucet | This Old House
Remove the Old Faucet Start by shutting off the wall valves and turning on the faucet to drain down residual pressure. Remove Hardware Under the sink, there are typically nuts and washers securing the faucet. Install New Faucet Faucets can vary greatly among manufacturers, so consult your installation manual.
- Replacing Bathroom Faucet and Drain Connections | Home Repair Tutor.
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Assemble Mixing Valves If you are using a single-hole faucet, you will skip the next steps. Thread the Trim For this faucet, the top trims are installed by threading onto the mixing valve. Reinstall Drain Rod Finally, reinstall the drain rod to the extension, and tighten the clamp bolt. How to Re-Caulk a Bathroom 5 Steps. How to Fix a Clogged Toilet 6 Photos. How to Remove and Replace Grout 3 Steps. How to Replace a Dryer Belt 7 Steps.
Assemble the Parts Step 3: